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"These irritating or vasodilating components can be peppermint, ginger, cayenne pepper, capsaicin, cinnamon, or menthol," Dr. Saedi adds. Other elements, similar to benzyl nicotinate, methyl nicotinate, and tocopheryl nicotinate, typically fly beneath the radar, but in line with product growth marketing consultant Melinda Small, each one is a derivative of nicotinic acid-the same base ingredient from which niacinamide is derived. "These are all vasodilators but additionally serve as key vitamins within the physique," she says. These derivatives (also known as esters) all offer similar benefits, but some may be stronger than others, especially depending on what else they're combined with. And as the esters ignite a swelling response inside the lip, a flush of pink or raspberry usually follows (no lip blushing obligatory), but if the tingle is too intense for you, simply wipe it off and swap it for one more system with more soothing and hydrating elements, like squalane and aloe. 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